| One Tomato, Two Tomato Pa amb Tomquet or Tomato Bread beats pancakes for breakfast, rivals a BLT for lunch and is a hands down favorite during a night of tapas whether on its own or playing a supporting role for jamon or anchovies. The beauty of this iconic Catalonian dish is in the harmonic alliance of the simplest everyday ingredients. Bread, tomato, virgin olive oil and salt. A perfect composition. The first written record found about tomato bread in the area was dated 1884, but it almost seems like a Catalonian birthright. I loved watching its construction, and eventually I improved my own technique; but most of all I just savored it. Good bread is a requirement. Rustic works well, lots of nooks and crannies are ideal, and toasted is the norm. The small juicy red tomato grown for tomato bread is called tomacon. This thick-skinned tomato stores well and is threaded and hung in a cool place for months. The pulp concentrates and makes it the ultimate schmear. The tomato is cut in half and rubbed onto the bread, tinting it and dotting it with seeds and bits of flesh. Coarse salt is sprinkled on and abundant local virgin olive oil flows to finish the dish. Nuanced, flavorful and almost addictive, it’s clear why Pa amb Tomquet is so well-loved. Tricks of the Trade Almost as ubiquitous as the colorful berets displayed in San Sebastian’s shop windows, pil pil sauce is omni-present on menus throughout the Spanish Basque region, accompanying salt cod, treasured hake chin and gambas (shrimp). Bacalao al Pil Pil in particular epitomizes the rich culinary heritage of the Basque region and the bounty of the sea. Its roots extend back for centuries when cod was so plentiful that Basque fishermen claimed they could almost walk on water. Preserving the cod with salt allowed the Basque fishing fleets to travel long distances and have a shelf stable product to trade. Upon my last delicious encounter with Bacalao al Pil Pil, its true brilliance became more apparent as its patient construction was demonstrated at Mimo cooking school in San Sebastian, Spain. Basque chefs describe their cooking as pure and simple, with a few high quality ingredients and precise techniques obtaining maximum flavor. Salt cod, garlic, chili pepper and virgin olive oil comprise the ingredients of Bacalao al Pil Pil. Preparing it is part science, part practice and a touch of dance theatre. And then the spirited debate begins on whether to cook the desalted reconstituted cod skin up or skin down. Either way, the fish is poached at a low temperature and the collagen begins to seep out of the fish in little white globules. When the fish is cooked and the pan is full of gelatin, the chef has several options for finishing the sauce. The traditional cooks will begin to gently swirl their ceramic cooking pans (cazuelas) in a motion that calls to mind a hula hoop gyration and as a result of their pil pil dance a creamy sauce magically forms. Confident modern chefs may choose to finish the dish the traditional way or take a short cut by removing the fish from the pan, keeping it warm in a low temperature oven and then, whisking the sauce in the pan or agitating the sauce with a small strainer, gently coaxing the ingredients together. Our chef instructor jokingly rechristened our sauce “fish mayonnaise”, which was my AHA as I experienced mystery, art and science merging in a centuries old magical moment. Much like making mayonnaise or aioli by hand, patience and practice produce delicious results.  Savoring a Sweet Event We are looking forward to participating in the closing reception of the Sweet n Savory exhibit at Manor Mill in Monkton on Sunday, October 27, from 5-6 PM. This exceptional exhibit, which began its run on September 21st, brings together a mouthwatering collection of food-themed artwork, including paintings, ceramics, photography, and mixed media. Featuring renowned artists such as Frank Spino, Matthew Bird, and Carol Lee Thompson, this 5-star exhibition is truly a feast for the eyes. We’re delighted to offer a curated selection of artfully crafted bites for the closing reception. We believe food is its own form of art, and we’re honored to share our culinary creations in a setting that celebrates the intersection of food and visual expression. We’re looking forward to sharing our passion for food and enjoying this unique celebration of creativity. It’s a wonderful opportunity to engage with the local community, blending artistry on the plate and in the gallery. Whether you’re here to admire the paintings, ceramics, or photography—or simply to indulge in the bites we’ve prepared—we can’t wait to share this flavorful, inspiring experience with you! |
From Our Library, Harriet’s Book Picks, Back to School Edition:  The Ark of Taste: Delicious and Distinctive Foods That Define the United States by David S Shields and Giselle Kennedy Lord is a fascinating and enlightening read. Slow Food’s Ark of Taste is a reimagining of Noah’s ark and sets out to “preserve the vast biodiversity of foods that were at risk of extinction.” Short essays arranged alphabetically by geographical region in the states introduce a wide range of foods. Some are well-known like tupelo honey, Gravenstein apples and the American chestnut. Others might be a discovery, like tennis ball lettuce, Cherokee Trail of Tears bean or Alaskan birch syrup. Each entry is an engaging history lesson and a compelling example of why the effort to regain and maintain biodiversity is beneficial for the environment, communities and our larders. About a dozen chef recipes are included as well as notable producers for each entry and grower profiles. Close to home, there are chapters on the fish pepper, Hayman sweet potato, the Hinkelhatz pepper and the Fairfax strawberry. The Fairfax strawberry really piqued my interest because it was called “the greatest berry creation of the 20thcentury….on account of its fresh eating and dessert quality” and an enthusiastic customer opined “if there is anything tastier than the Fairfax it must grow in celestial regions”. Like many of the products on the Ark of Taste, a change to monocropping and its requirements pushed the beloved berry almost to extinction. Luckily, a grower in Delaware missed the good tasting berry and reintroduced the plant and spread it among enough growers to keep the Fairfax berry alive. The Ark of Taste is a lovely book to peruse and to engage in stories about food superheroes and the small important everyday feats that have a meaningful impact on what goes on our plate. From our Kitchen: Pumpkin Chili Chef Jerome Dorsch Vegan pumpkin chili is the perfect dish to have ready for Halloween night. You can make it ahead of time, so after the chaos of trick-or-treating, all you have to do is heat it up and serve. Its hearty blend of spices and pumpkin brings warmth on a chilly night, making it a hit with the whole family. Plus, it doubles as a game-day favorite, offering a crowd-pleasing option that vegans and non-vegans alike will love.Ingredients:2 Tablespoons (30ml) olive oil 1 cup chopped yellow onion (1/2 of a large onion) 1 green bell pepper, diced 1 red bell pepper, diced 1 small jalapeño, minced (remove seeds and ribs) 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 and 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons chili powder 1 teaspoon onion powder 2 cups (480ml) vegetable broth or water 3 (14 ounce) cans petite diced tomatoes, do not drain 1 (15 ounce) can pinto beans, drained and rinsed 1 (15 ounce) can kidney beans, drained and rinsed 1 (15 ounce) can pumpkin puree 1 large sweet potato, peeled and diced optional: 1/2 (15 ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed Optional For Serving: chopped cilantro chopped red onion sliced avocado Instructions: Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a 5 quart (or larger) pot or dutch oven. Add the onion, bell peppers, and jalapeño. Stir and cook for 5 minutes as the onion softens. Add garlic, salt, black pepper, cumin, chili powder, and onion powder. Stir and cook for 1 minute. Add the remaining ingredients including black beans, if using.Place the lid on top, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.Serve hot with any add-ons you’d like! Click here to print the recipe.  |
Newsletter
October 1, 2024
October 2024: Spain, Simply Delicious
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